William Finnegan
Auteur van Primitieve dagen Een surfend leven
Over de Auteur
William Finnegan has been a staff writer at The New Yorker since 1987 and won two Overseas Press Club awards since 2009. He has written several books including Cold New World, A Complicated War, Dateline Soweto, and Crossing the Line. In 2016, he won the Pulitzer Prize for biography for Barbarian toon meer Days: A Surfing Life. (Bowker Author Biography) toon minder
Werken van William Finnegan
Leasing the Rain. In The New Yorker 1 exemplaar
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The crashing of waves on his ears. The birds. The boats. The banter of surfing friends.
The taste of the salt-water and the icy arctic winds off Montauk on Long Island.
With Finnegan we journey to the world’s premier surfing waters. Honolulu. Fiji. Madeira. Australia. Guam. And on.
Of course, it is winter and I am in slushy Toronto. Not so cold today. Snow lined streets hush the din of traffic.
The traffic inside Finnegan’s memoir is the dialogue with the rocks, the sandy-bottomed bays, the furious energy of the sea. And the speed of gliding down a 20-foot swale in the ocean.
There is day and to my surprise there is night riding. It sounds pretty dangerous.
And to what end?
Finnegan never comes out and says what exactly he loves about surfing. Is it the speed? Is it the thrill of danger? Does he love the sea? It frees him from having to compete in the schoolyard. We never find out exactly what it’s all about for him.
He sure doesn’t want to be a nine-to-fiver.
At one point in his adolescence he admits that the thrill of meeting beach girls was a driving force. Somehow he confuses his devotion for surfing with his girlfriends’ devotion to him. He’s a little surprised when women leave him but not that much.
He eschews calling surfing a sport and hates the popularization of surfing when it impinges on his freedom or safety or the sense of exclusivity.… (meer)