Seek Advice Regarding Archival Cover for Hardcover Books without Dust Jackets

Can someone please provide me with information regarding a transparent archival cover for a hardcover book without a dust jacket?

Thank you for your advice.

Perhaps something like this: http://www.gaylord.com/adblock.asp?abid=12180 (except not in vinyl; you need an archival material similar to that in link below).

or this: http://www.gaylord.com/search.asp?search_type=desc&search_by_desc=mylar+roll...

I've used the second (archival poly by the roll), but it can be a bit more trouble than pre-sized slip-on covers like those in the first link.

Os.

ETA disclaimer about vinyl

Wow. I would definitely not use that first item on any book I wanted to preserve. They are made of vinyl and that is very far from an archival-grade material.

The second material is archival grade. At the bookstore I managed in the 1990s we used 3 mil and 5 mil thick Mylar. We had large rolls approximately 40-48 inches. This would be a little unwieldy for home use but the 12 in. x 100 ft. in 3 mil (US$83.59) has possibilities for the same use we made.

The process involved carefully measuring the height of the book to be protected and cutting a piece with that height and a length large enough to form a dust jacket of sorts (back, spine, front, plus flaps). Then there is an art to folding in the right places to get the right fit.

James

There are some instructions here for a very simple mylar jacket: http://mylar.pagebooks.net/

4>,

That's a good set of illustrated instructions and essentially the process we used in the 1990s.

The key is to use a good archival grade plastic like Mylar. Otherwise, you destroy that which you are trying to "protect."

James

>3 Keeline: (and 2)

Oops. I thought I was in Gaylord's archival supplies section, and didn't notice that these were vinyl.

I went back to their site, but don't see anything like the vinyl wrappers in an archival material. Too bad. I'm pretty sure someone is making them, though.

I'm editing the post 2 so it's no longer misleading.

Os.

Hi from the UK. This is my first post so please be gentle (and I apologise in advance for resurrecting this topic if I should have started a new one!). I too have a few books without jackets; I have bought a few repro covers from Mark Terry in the past but there are always inevitably some that he doesn't have, and I have pondered for a while about what to do about protecting them. I normally use Adjustaroll from Gresswells (archival safe polypropylene) for books with jackets, but had thought I wouldn't be able to use it for books without jackets as it has one clear side and one paper side - that is, until I found this video on YouTube - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=63LKaOks-Gw

Profold Plus is made by an Australian company and it has both sides made of polypropylene. However, with a bit of careful folding and using the video as a guide, I've found I can fold the paper side of my Adjustaroll out of sight and the end result is very good, even at the first attempt. Another great bonus is that there's no messing about with bone folders etc using mylar (which is difficult to obtain over here)!

I hope this helps someone in the UK or elsewhere.

Do the transparent plastic covers give any protection against fading? I rather doubt it. Has anyone gone down the road of making simple dust-jackets from acid-free paper for d/w-less hardbacks? No complicated folding there.

>8 abbottthomas: My in-laws have covered pretty much all of their older books in paper, presumably acid-free but I really couldn't say. It does work nicely, and you can simply write/stick a label on them.

I have just bought a Johannesburg history commemorative book for the city's 90th anniversary , sadly lacking a dw, but decided to borrow the same book from a library and colour photocopy the dw , trim down to size and then cover my copy. anyone tried this method?

I cover all my books with a polypropylene transparent material and it gives a good effect. All that is required is cutting and folding and means that I repair any tears or missing bits of dust wrappers first . The new wrap cover protects against further wear and can easily be replaced . I bought it from a local factory a few years ago but now idiotically forgotten the place . I bought the stuff on huge rolls by weight .

To cut down if not prevent sun fading We have had the windows of our library covered with Klingshield a sort of transparent slightly grey material at is said to cut out 95 per cent of UV component of light . I shall report back in a few years on effectiveness .

I do not worry to cover paperback books but may work out how to do this Inexpensively in due course.

another LT member wcarter has made neat protectors for the top edges of books on his shelves . Most successful

decided to borrow the same book from a library and colour photocopy the dw , trim down to size and then cover my copy.

Hah, that's quite ingenious! I doubt I'd ever have thought of such a thing, I love it. :))

Thanks, but of course to go to this trouble means the book has to be special eg part of a series , or commemorative volume or a v collectable author . I believe there are professional dw paper restorers; a friend showed me a James Bond (1st edition ) title where it was worth having a specialist, repair an original dw. I have one 19th C book on the history of costume where the previous owner (my father) photocopied missing pages from a library copy and then had them bound in to his damaged copy . It's obvious what has been done but at least gives the complete run .

I've been making and repairing DJ for my Margaret Wise Brown collection, for years. I'm a graphic designer and realist fine artist so I just happen to have the equipment and experience, but it you don't - photocopies taken to a larger-format printer can work beautifully.

My first step in making a new DJ is to acquire an original DJ for the edition that I need a cover for. I have borrowed the DJs I need and I have contacted private collectors that have the DJ's I need. I have had great luck in getting the photos and scans and I have made some good friends in the process. I have them photograph the DJ opened up - at the highest DPI they can manage. If it's a small cover it can be scanned.

Photographing art of any kind is tricky - The perfect lighting is outside on an overcast day. Photograph the DJ straight ahead as to not create a skewed perspective. If you have an easel and a tripod you have it made. Place the DJ on a board and cover it with non-glare glass - OK I know thats a lot of special equipment, but if you have dozens to make it's worth it.

The collectors with the original DJ's (my new friends - that I trade jackets for Photos with ) send the jpeg file to me in Dropbox or other ways, because the files will be large. Then I take the file into Photoshop and measure it to make sure it is correct for the book, touch it up, cleaning spots, take the scratches out, repair the tears, brighten the color - and then I print the image on a large format printer,I usually use my 13" wide cannon printer - it can print 13 x 19 or longer. I use cannon 13 x 19 matt photo paper. I trim to fit, then I wrap the new DJ in a Brodart (Paper backed Mylar book cover) - then put it on the book.

Repairing torn or chipped DJ's by hand requires rice paper of different weights, wheat paste, a steady hand and the ability to match colors perfectly and fill in the missing art. I use acrylic paint and if the DJ is glossy will coat only the repair with high gloss medium when I'm finished. I only do hand repairs for myself because it takes forever and I have a full time job- maybe when I retire I'll offer it as a service. When first I started - I practiced on book jackets of little value that I picked up at thrift stores. Give it a try- it's actually really fun.

>10 Africansky1: Sorry to revive an old thread, but I am curious as to how your books are faring with the protection of the window film and polypropylene material. Have you experienced any fading?