What to do with an 1852 set of Waverley Novels
DiscussieBook Care and Repair
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1eastonlionel
I need advice and would appreciate any opinions. I have a 12 volume set of Waverley Novels by Sir Walter Scott. The printing date is 1851. The set is bound in full leather with marbled end boards. The main issue is that the covers are in good condition, not great, but the leather is not flaking or crumbling, just rubs & scuffs. However, the spine, which of course is exposed to sunlight, air, etc. is well oxidized on each volume. The binding appears quite good, and tight. I have not noticed any loose pages in any of the volumes. Not sure what to do with these to preserve them. Can the spine somehow be saved, or would the books need to be rebound? There is also some very short/minor splitting at the crease between the boards and the spine on some volumes at the top or bottom. Here are pictures of volume 1, which is typical. Any advice would be appreciated, especially any binders/experts in my area: La Crosse, Wisconsin.
Thanks!
Thanks!
2lilithcat
Can the spine somehow be saved, or would the books need to be rebound?
A bookbinder would need to look at them to be certain, but from the photos I'd say it was possible for you to just have a simple spine repair done, rather than a full rebinding. New material would be put on the spine only, which would also address the issue of the minor splitting; depending on the condition of the leather, the old spine, or parts of it, could be replaced on top of the new spine.
To locate a binder in your area, you might try contacting the Midwest Chapter of the Guild of Book Workers (midwest@guildofbookworkers.org). Another possibility would be to check with an institutional library in your area, particularly one with a Special Collections department, to see who they use. They may have a conservator on staff who does work on the side.
A bookbinder would need to look at them to be certain, but from the photos I'd say it was possible for you to just have a simple spine repair done, rather than a full rebinding. New material would be put on the spine only, which would also address the issue of the minor splitting; depending on the condition of the leather, the old spine, or parts of it, could be replaced on top of the new spine.
To locate a binder in your area, you might try contacting the Midwest Chapter of the Guild of Book Workers (midwest@guildofbookworkers.org). Another possibility would be to check with an institutional library in your area, particularly one with a Special Collections department, to see who they use. They may have a conservator on staff who does work on the side.
3LolaWalser
What beautiful marbling!
Please let us know how you solved the problem, I have a few similar candidates for intervention.
Please let us know how you solved the problem, I have a few similar candidates for intervention.
4eastonlionel
>2 lilithcat: Thanks for the advice. I actually am a professor at the state university here, so I contacted our library. Our book conservator will be able to look at the book next week and give me advice on how to proceed. I do have a couple of recommendations for outside bookbinders. I will post again to let you all know how this turns out.
5eastonlionel
Well, after a couple of consultations, the best option for now seems to be to apply Cellugel to deteriorated areas of the leather cover, which are essentially confined to the spine and limited areas on the border of the covers. In addition, I intend to make a dust jacket for each book from Canson tracing paper, which is acid free. Could also use Canson Glassine paper, but the local Hobby Lobby only had the tracing paper. I also found a video produced by a British library recommending Renaissance wax to make the leather water resistant. This particular wax is acid free.
6Keeline
For books without dust jackets, it is possible to use 3 mil or 5 mil thick Mylar (or equivalent acid-free archival grade plastic) to create a jacket for a book. This helps to keep the oils of one's hands off the book when handling it. Making a jacket involves some precise cutting and creasing but the result is nice looking.
Occasionally I have heard an objection raised that leather needs to breathe and this method might inhibit that. I have certain leather books from the 1730s that were so covered in the early 1990s and they remain in good shape. In my limited experimentation with leather and cloth bindings mainly from the 19th century and later, I feel that this method does not cause harm.
I will look for the Canson tracing paper and glassine paper. Both would, I'm sure, obscure the lettering and tooling of the covers (for good or bad).
I am glad you found a solution that you find satisfactory. Please post photos when you are done.
James
Occasionally I have heard an objection raised that leather needs to breathe and this method might inhibit that. I have certain leather books from the 1730s that were so covered in the early 1990s and they remain in good shape. In my limited experimentation with leather and cloth bindings mainly from the 19th century and later, I feel that this method does not cause harm.
I will look for the Canson tracing paper and glassine paper. Both would, I'm sure, obscure the lettering and tooling of the covers (for good or bad).
I am glad you found a solution that you find satisfactory. Please post photos when you are done.
James
7lilithcat
> 5
Oh, you've got red rot! Yep, Cellugel is your friend there.
> 6
Actually, handling leather is generally good for it, though not when it's rotting. By then the damage is done. But the oils in your hands actually help prevent that. Of course, you want to be sure your hands are clean!
Oh, you've got red rot! Yep, Cellugel is your friend there.
> 6
Actually, handling leather is generally good for it, though not when it's rotting. By then the damage is done. But the oils in your hands actually help prevent that. Of course, you want to be sure your hands are clean!
8eastonlionel
The Cellugel and Renaissance wax arrived yesterday, and I spent some time today applying the Cellugel, allowing it to dry completely (a few hours) and then rubbing a very light coat of the Renaissance wax. Here are some pictures.
Spine after Cellugel was applied:
Spine after Renaissance wax was applied:
Cover after Cellugel was applied just to the edges and where the boards bend at the spine:
Cover after Renaissance was was applied:
Before doing the two steps, the leather was flaking and I would have slight red stains on my hands. After applying the Cellugel, that was no longer the case, as expected. Rubbing a very thin/sparing coat of wax on the book made it actually comfortable to handle. I did not feel like I was damaging the book just by handling it.
I am an amateur at making a dust jacket, but I did just want to protect the cover from handling and sunlight, so I made a jacket from the Canson tracing paper I mentioned in a previous post. I have made dust jackets from this material before with Limited Editions Club books where the original glassine was missing - which is most books.
Spine with dust jacket:
Cover with dust jacket. The tape is only on the outside contacting the Canson paper to hold the fold down:
Overall, I am very pleased and feel that I can now read these volumes without damaging the book. This is a joy because they are letterpress and have hundreds of illustrations from steel engravings and woodcuts! Thanks for the advice!
Spine after Cellugel was applied:
Spine after Renaissance wax was applied:
Cover after Cellugel was applied just to the edges and where the boards bend at the spine:
Cover after Renaissance was was applied:
Before doing the two steps, the leather was flaking and I would have slight red stains on my hands. After applying the Cellugel, that was no longer the case, as expected. Rubbing a very thin/sparing coat of wax on the book made it actually comfortable to handle. I did not feel like I was damaging the book just by handling it.
I am an amateur at making a dust jacket, but I did just want to protect the cover from handling and sunlight, so I made a jacket from the Canson tracing paper I mentioned in a previous post. I have made dust jackets from this material before with Limited Editions Club books where the original glassine was missing - which is most books.
Spine with dust jacket:
Cover with dust jacket. The tape is only on the outside contacting the Canson paper to hold the fold down:
Overall, I am very pleased and feel that I can now read these volumes without damaging the book. This is a joy because they are letterpress and have hundreds of illustrations from steel engravings and woodcuts! Thanks for the advice!
