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Consumed: Why Americans Love, Hate, and Fear Food (1994)

door Michelle Stacey

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Something has happened to food in America. It is no longer simply food-- filling, good-tasting, life-sustaining. Rather, it is fat free or high in fiber or loaded with calories-- it is an enemy that will steal life away, or a savior that will prolong it. In this provocative and entertaining look at the uniquely American obsession with food, Michelle Stacey chronicles the psychological and cultural forces that have transformed oat bran and broccoli into magical totems, and steak, butter, and eggs into killers. Stacey takes us on a revealing journey through the landscape of American food paranoia-- from supermarkets, to restaurant kitchens, to research labs-- and ultimately suggests a new answer to our fears, one that takes into account our ancient and abiding love for eating. Perceptive and original, Consumed will change the way you think about food.… (meer)
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    The Nuts among the Berries door Ronald M. Deutsch (PuddinTame)
    PuddinTame: A similar bemusement at the ideas that people have about their food
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An interesting book-length essay on the politics of food science and culture in the United States. Stacy looks at the weird ways Americans are altering their diets in order to measure up to some imagined nutritional ideal. She interviews several scientists, chefs and food writers who claim that the result is a pathological and cultural fear of food that brings about the very problems that these altered diets were meant to avoid. Along the way, the book pauses to talk with the inventor of Olestra, the fat substitute that failed abysmally in the marketplace, and with the head of the nation's leading vegetarian advocacy group. This is a good companion volume to the last few chapters of Harold McGee's On Food and Cooking, and a necessary waystation for anyone contemplating a radical change in diet. ( )
  Brian.McGovney | Mar 30, 2013 |
Consumed is a look at American attitudes towards food, mostly beginning in the 19th century. Instead of thinking of food as a necessary pleasure, people loaded it with considerable ideological freight. Indeed, some authorities then and now argued that food should not be a pleasure: it should be solely regarded as a necessary fuel and chosen purely on its nutritional value, not any aesthetic qualities. People are often guided by reports in the media of studies that may be flawed or inconclusive. This has resulted in a society of people who are anxious, but ill-informed. Some react by severe abstemiousness, seeming to assume that if moderation is good, then complete denial is better. Others react by swinging wildly between denial and indulgence. Others make decidedly odd choices and trade offs, as shown by Michelle Stacey's discussions with a chef who struggles to give people what they think they want, but knows that they are making dubious choices. It obviously distresses him to see taste sacrificed, especially for minor tradeoffs in fat and calorie reduction. Stacey asks if it is really makes sense to buy no-fat yogurt, when low-fat yogurt is so much better and only contain three grams of fat.

Stacy argues that American should look to Europeans as a model for dealing with food. Food should be regarded as both a necessity and a pleasure: dining is one of the arts of civilization. She believes that Americans might actually consume less if they took the time to appreciate their food more. I am not certain about this, but I do agree that food is much more satisfying when one makes the effort to savor it. An ounce of chocolate can almost seem like a whole chocolate bar that was scarted down if I really pay attention to it when I am eating. ( )
  PuddinTame | Sep 12, 2011 |
This book is really anachronistic, having been written before Atkins, GMOs, and even the Internet. Although I agree with the basic premise of the book (people are weird about food), I didn't enjoy it, felt that the people who the author interviewed were sort of out there (but maybe that was normal for 1994) and didn't like the portrayal of vegetarians and vegans. ( )
  lemontwist | Aug 18, 2010 |
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Jacques Pepin, renowned chef and author of more than a dozen cookbooks, dean of special programs at the French Culinary Institute of New York, star of the TV show "Today's Gourmet," has been watching Americans eat ever since she moved here from France more than thirty years ago.
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Something has happened to food in America. It is no longer simply food-- filling, good-tasting, life-sustaining. Rather, it is fat free or high in fiber or loaded with calories-- it is an enemy that will steal life away, or a savior that will prolong it. In this provocative and entertaining look at the uniquely American obsession with food, Michelle Stacey chronicles the psychological and cultural forces that have transformed oat bran and broccoli into magical totems, and steak, butter, and eggs into killers. Stacey takes us on a revealing journey through the landscape of American food paranoia-- from supermarkets, to restaurant kitchens, to research labs-- and ultimately suggests a new answer to our fears, one that takes into account our ancient and abiding love for eating. Perceptive and original, Consumed will change the way you think about food.

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