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Palestinian Walks: Forays into a Vanishing Landscape (2007)

door Raja Shehadeh

LedenBesprekingenPopulariteitGemiddelde beoordelingAanhalingen
2569104,103 (4.03)23
Raja Shehadeh is a passionate hill walker. He enjoys nothing more than heading out into the countryside that surrounds his home. But in recent years, his hikes have become less than bucolic, and sometimes downright dangerous. That is because his home is Ramallah, on the Palestinian West Bank, and the landscape he traverses is now the site of a tense standoff between his fellow Palestinians and settlers newly arrived from Israel. In this original and evocative book, we accompany Raja on six walks taken between 1978 and 2006. The earlier forays are peaceful affairs, allowing our guide to meditate at length on the character of his native land, a terrain of olive trees on terraced hillsides, luxuriant valleys carved by sacred springs, carpets of wild iris and hyacinth, and ancient monasteries built more than a thousand years ago. Shehadeh's love for this magical place saturates his renderings of its history and topography. But latterly, as seemingly endless concrete is poured to build settlements and their surrounding walls, he finds the old trails are now impassable and the countryside he once traversed freely has become contested ground. He is harassed by Israeli border patrols, watches in terror as a young hiking companion picks up an unexploded missile, and even, on one occasion when accompanied by his wife, comes under prolonged gunfire. Amid the many and varied tragedies of the Middle East, the loss of a simple pleasure such as the ability to roam the countryside at will may seem a minor matter. But in Palestinian Walks, Raja Shehadeh's elegy for his lost footpaths becomes a heartbreaking metaphor for the deprivations of an entire people estranged from their land.… (meer)
  1. 00
    Sharon and My Mother-in-Law: Ramallah Diaries door Suad Amiry (wandering_star)
    wandering_star: Both these are moving personal views of life in Ramallah.
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This book by a secular Palestinian lawyer and activist focuses on the changes that have taken place to the land in the West Bank, both legally and physically, since the start of the Israeli settlement project. It is loosely organized into a series of six walks, or sarhat, an Arabic term for a long, meditative walk in the wilderness. It is also a bitter elegy for what is now gone - a time when the hills of the West Bank were undeveloped and a Palestinian could walk freely without fear and constraint from Israeli settlements, roads, and "nature preserves" that Palestinians are not allowed to set foot on, guarded by armed soldiers and settlers, that continually expand and encircle Palestinian towns and villages, shrinking the space within which Palestinians can live.

The six sarhat in the book mix description of the walk itself and the surrounding land features, and the politics of land ownership and seizure.

Sarha 1: takes place in 1978, a walk to the qasr of Shehadeh's grandfather's cousin. A qasr was a small stone structure built for farmers to live in when they needed to be away from their home in a populated area to tend to their land. Shehadeh describes the hills as already being abandoned in some respects by Palestinians, as the land had declined in its ability to support farming. Such land no longer being used by Palestinian farmers formed a basis for the Israeli settlement project, as Israeli law said any land no longer being lived on by its Palestinian owner ceased to belong to him and reverted back to its original owners, the Jewish people, as represented by the State of Israel.

Sarha 2: A hike to an isolated, small village and its nearby hilltop. The hilltop has since been taken by Israel for a settlement. Shehadeh in this chapter discusses one of his first land cases, where he represented a Palestinian Christian whose land had been taken over for a settlement. Shehadeh says it was well documented in legal terms that his client owned the land, and he still thought he could legally fight the settlement project in Israeli courts through such cases. However the attitude of the court was essentially that the land was gone, and his client should take what monetary payout he could get. His legal efforts to resist were going to prove unfruitful.

Sarha 3: Set in the mid-1990s after the Oslo Agreement. Shehadeh describes a walk to the Dead Sea with a Fatah official allowed in to the West Bank under the deal, and describes his opposition to the Oslo Agreement as a surrender and a defeat. It did not challenge Israeli town planning, which drew circles around existing Palestinian population centers and did not allow them to expand. Meanwhile it claimed vast areas of land for future settlement expansion. The PLO displayed little understanding of the legal aspects of Israeli land policies and did not seem to care. He was frustrated by the blind optimism of his Fatah companion as they walked along the rugged, salty landscape towards the Dead Sea.

Sarha 4: A walk towards the oldest continually inhabited city in the world, Jericho, from near Jerusalem. The walk went along a lush green valley that contains lots of water, making it the favored pathway for centuries of pilgrims and conquerors making their way to Jerusalem. One of Shehadeh's companions on this walk is an archeologist, who notes the absence of the Bedouin tribes that until recently roamed these areas, but who had now been chased away by the Israelis. Shehadeh stops at the Monastery of St. George, built into the rocks in the 5th century and still an active monastery.

Sarha 5: A walk on a constrained path in the hills near Ramallah with his friend Mustafa Barghouti, a well known Palestinian doctor and politician. They share an analysis of Oslo that it is a failure, and Barghouti describes the immense pressure he is under to join the Palestinian government and drop his criticism. As they walk they see and hear almost everywhere around them new Israeli construction of buildings and roads. Shehadeh says he has accepted that the Palestinians have been defeated, and that the land has been and will continue to be overwhelmingly transformed, and his efforts have been in vain.

Sarha 6: A solitary walk near an Israeli settlement results in an encounter with a young Israeli along a creek. The Israeli is unexpectedly friendly, but Shehadeh cannot hold back his bitterness over the settlements as they talk, and complains that the Israeli has internalized and parrots back the official dogma he has learned about the rights of the Jews to the land of the West Bank, and the lack of rights the Palestinians should have. Shehadeh recognizes their mutual love of the land, about the only time in the book the Israeli point of view has any sort of sympathetic hearing.

( )
  lelandleslie | Feb 24, 2024 |
2012 (my brief review can found on the LibraryThing post linked)
http://www.librarything.com/topic/138560#3562310
  dchaikin | Sep 26, 2020 |
This is an incredible and heartbreaking book, beautifully written and devastating in its effect. I now feel totally pessimistic about the situation in the West Bank. ( )
  laurenbufferd | Nov 14, 2016 |
Mr. Shehadeh is a Palestinian attorney but more than that he is a walker. When he is frustrated by the outcome of his caseload he loves nothing more than traversing the land which surrounds his home in Ramallah. Every hill, every cave, each artifact he discovers holds a special place in his heart. He see's the landscape begin to transform with each of the six walks he describes in this book. Shehedah describes how roads are being cut into the hills he once walked with friends, solo or with his wife. Bulldozers eat away at caves and new homes are being built where Bedouin once tended their sheep. In what he considered his own land, he now walks in fear of being arrested, shot at or simply denied entrance. His final walk described in this book brings him face to face with a settler. There is no doubt, they each love the land, each wants it for their people, each want to enjoy it without fear yet each will do anything to hold on to what each believe is rightfully theirs. Yet, towards the conclusion of the book Shehadeh and a settler share an intimate moment along side a babbling brook enjoying the landscape.........together.
Maps and photos of his walks would have been a helpful addition to this book.
Edit | More ( )
  Carmenere | May 16, 2016 |
A superb reflection by a Palestinian on the meanings his land holds for him, and the changes wrought on it by 60 years of Israeli occupation. He recounts a series of half a dozen different walks around his home town, Ramallah, with different walking companions, and tells how one of life's simple pleasures, taken for granted by most us, has become more and more difficult, almost impossible. Land is grabbed by settlers, roads drive across ancient rights of way, walls spring up, olive groves are uprooted, soldiers bar the way, he can no longer walk the paths his grandfather trod. He and his wife are even fired at on one walk, not as they first suspect by Israelis, but by Palestinians who can't - or won't - understand what they are doing. Walking? Why are you walking? All the issues raised by the Israel-Palestine conflict are discussed as he takes us through the walks, and all shades of Palestinian opinion get an airing as he argues the way forward with various friends and relatives. And through it all, there's an obstinate determination to keep on walking. ( )
1 stem michaelshade | May 11, 2012 |
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Wikipedia in het Engels (1)

Raja Shehadeh is a passionate hill walker. He enjoys nothing more than heading out into the countryside that surrounds his home. But in recent years, his hikes have become less than bucolic, and sometimes downright dangerous. That is because his home is Ramallah, on the Palestinian West Bank, and the landscape he traverses is now the site of a tense standoff between his fellow Palestinians and settlers newly arrived from Israel. In this original and evocative book, we accompany Raja on six walks taken between 1978 and 2006. The earlier forays are peaceful affairs, allowing our guide to meditate at length on the character of his native land, a terrain of olive trees on terraced hillsides, luxuriant valleys carved by sacred springs, carpets of wild iris and hyacinth, and ancient monasteries built more than a thousand years ago. Shehadeh's love for this magical place saturates his renderings of its history and topography. But latterly, as seemingly endless concrete is poured to build settlements and their surrounding walls, he finds the old trails are now impassable and the countryside he once traversed freely has become contested ground. He is harassed by Israeli border patrols, watches in terror as a young hiking companion picks up an unexploded missile, and even, on one occasion when accompanied by his wife, comes under prolonged gunfire. Amid the many and varied tragedies of the Middle East, the loss of a simple pleasure such as the ability to roam the countryside at will may seem a minor matter. But in Palestinian Walks, Raja Shehadeh's elegy for his lost footpaths becomes a heartbreaking metaphor for the deprivations of an entire people estranged from their land.

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