Lisa St Aubin conveys the essence of what Italy is by dividing it into the four classical elements of earth, fire, air and water - what it looks, smells, sounds and tastes like. The turnstile into Italy has clicked continually for centuries - Lord Byron loved here and continues to draw romantics in his wake; Stendhal concluded, The charm of Italy is akin to that of being in love; Vita Sackville-West grew drunk on her rapture for the country; and Heinrich Heine noted simply letting yourself live is beautiful in Italy. And yet Italians love their country more than any foreigner ever can.