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Mushroom : a global history

door Cynthia D. Bertelsen

Reeksen: Edible (38)

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 Known as the meat of the vegetable world, mushrooms have their ardent supporters as well as their fierce detractors. Hobbits go crazy over them, while Diderot thought they should be "sent back to the dung heap where they are born." In Mushroom, Cynthia D. Bertelsen examines the colorful history of these divisive edible fungi. As she reveals, their story is fraught with murder and accidental death, hunger and gluttony, sickness and health, religion and war. Some cultures equate them with the rottenness of life while others delight in cooking and eating them. And then there are those "magic" mushrooms, which some people link to ancient religious beliefs.   To tell this story, Bertelsen travels to the nineteenth century, when mushrooms entered the realm of haute cuisine after millennia of being picked from the wild for use in everyday cooking and medicine. She describes how this new demand drove entrepreneurs and farmers to seek methods for cultivating mushrooms, including experiments in domesticating the highly sought after but elusive truffles, and she explores the popular pastime of mushroom hunting and includes numerous historic and contemporary recipes. Packed with images of mushrooms from around the globe, this savory book will be essential reading for fans of this surprising, earthy fungus.… (meer)
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I've been looking forward to reading this book for a long time. Finally got to it. Was surprised to find that it is illustrated with color photos. Bonus! This slim volume is rich with information that is bound to turn you into a mycophile, if you aren't a mushroom lover already.

Sitting down with it, I did a quick inventory of my relationship with mushrooms. What do I know about them really? After a soaking rain on my property, a dozen or so different varieties emerge from the ground and on trees. I've attempted to identify them, but without confidence. I have a nervous interest in hunting them, with a fear that I'd screw up and eat the wrong one.

Learning to cook on my own, my post-college roomie, one of five siblings, introduced me to the standard casserole layering: meat, Campbell's Cream of Mushroom soup, veg, potato. She put tater tots on top instead of mashed potatoes. The mushroom soup helped cook the meat and bind the layers adding a bit of flavor but mostly disappearing. I laughed and cheered to turn the page and find a photo of the iconic can of Campbells in the book and a description of exactly that casserole, the go-to for an easy, quick, fortifying, one-pot meal for a large family.

When I was a kid, there was only the one mushroom available in the supermarket. The white ones. My mom sauteed them in butter with a bit of white wine or fried them up. I recall when portobello mushrooms hit the scene. The portobello replacing the burger. Tasty!

This handy book offers up a history of the mushroom across cultures and continents. The mushroom has been looked on by some with derisive suspicion and others with appreciation for an extra food source in times of scarcity. Fun to see mention of mushrooms crop up in literature as well as cookbooks and travel stories.

Our understanding and appreciation of the mushroom is still evolving. Mushrooms have been introduced as a packaging material; for medicinal value; for environmental purposes.

If you happen to be a foodie, references to famous cookbooks either including or excluding mushroom recipes is of interest. There are recipes at the back, antiquated and modern.

Know a mycophile? This'd be a great gift.





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  JEatHHP | Aug 23, 2022 |
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 Known as the meat of the vegetable world, mushrooms have their ardent supporters as well as their fierce detractors. Hobbits go crazy over them, while Diderot thought they should be "sent back to the dung heap where they are born." In Mushroom, Cynthia D. Bertelsen examines the colorful history of these divisive edible fungi. As she reveals, their story is fraught with murder and accidental death, hunger and gluttony, sickness and health, religion and war. Some cultures equate them with the rottenness of life while others delight in cooking and eating them. And then there are those "magic" mushrooms, which some people link to ancient religious beliefs.   To tell this story, Bertelsen travels to the nineteenth century, when mushrooms entered the realm of haute cuisine after millennia of being picked from the wild for use in everyday cooking and medicine. She describes how this new demand drove entrepreneurs and farmers to seek methods for cultivating mushrooms, including experiments in domesticating the highly sought after but elusive truffles, and she explores the popular pastime of mushroom hunting and includes numerous historic and contemporary recipes. Packed with images of mushrooms from around the globe, this savory book will be essential reading for fans of this surprising, earthy fungus.

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