This was an odd anthology. There seemed a mean-spirited glee in the topic of vegetarians lapsing. Holly Hughes appears to have some issues with people who don't eat meat. That said, there are also some very sweet essays and some interesting points.

Caution: Best Food Writing 2008 may whet your appetite! The essays range from the intense: descriptions of life in the kitchens of some of the finest and most influential restaurants in America, to the heartwarming: a tale of red beans and rice that make you homesick for New Orleans, whether or not you've ever been there. Some are educational, covering topics like cloned meat and how to make the perfect braise, while others take on the political: the ban on foie gras sale in Chicago, and still others are ethical: dealing with the consequences of vegetarianism or eating only food produced locally. There is an aspect of voyeurism: Jess Thomson eats at Alinea so you don't have to; and Scott Gold embraces the Ecuadorian delicacy of roasted guinea pig.

The authors of the essays, all professional food writers, whisk you away with considerable skill to their own corner of the gastronomic universe. Holly Hughes did an admirable job in collecting and arranging this multi-course feast - I feel compelled to seek out her previous collections BFW 2000-2007.

Altogether, this book offers a multitude of perspectives that will not only make you crave the scrumptious edibles described therein, but will make you think differently about the food we eat - and how it connects us all. ( )