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The Cooking Gene: A Journey Through African American Culinary History in the Old South

door Michael W. Twitty

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7722629,025 (4.23)30
"Culinary historian Michael W. Twitty brings a fresh perspective to our most divisive cultural issue, race, in this illuminating memoir of Southern cuisine and food culture that traces his ancestry--both black and white--through food, from Africa to America and from slavery to freedom. Southern food is integral to the American culinary tradition, yet the question of who "owns" it is one of the most provocative touchpoints in our ongoing struggles over race. In this unique memoir, Twitty takes readers to the white-hot center of this fight, tracing the roots of his own family and the charged politics surrounding the origins of soul food, barbecue, and all Southern cuisine. Twitty travels from the tobacco and rice farms of colonial times to plantation kitchens and backbreaking cotton fields to tell of the struggles his family faced and how food enabled his ancestors' survival across three centuries. He sifts through stories, recipes, genetic tests, and historical documents, and visits Civil War battlefields in Virginia, synagogues in Alabama, and black-owned organic farms in Georgia. As he takes us through his ancestral culinary history, Twitty suggests that healing may come from embracing the discomfort of the South's past. Along the way, he reveals a truth that is more than skin deep--the power of food to bring the kin of the enslaved and their former slaveholders to the table, where they can discover the real America together."--Jacket.… (meer)
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1-5 van 24 worden getoond (volgende | toon alle)
Just fantastic. Beautiful and heartbreaking and poetic and infuriating. What a way with words he has, while also teaching this white girl many, many things I never knew. ( )
  gonzocc | Mar 31, 2024 |
Very good writing, but I ultimately don't enjoy ancestry projects to finish.
  mslibrarynerd | Jan 13, 2024 |
ugh I once again forgot to put in the right edition (and I thought I did, but maybe this was before I deliberately entered ISBN numbers) so my page numbers are off.

anyway, Twitty is a lyrical author, and here he has crafted a gorgeous, personal narrative that feels the weight of historical trauma and a yearning for what was lost due to institutional slavery obscuring names, places, and lineages. This knowledge (and book) is derived from his crowdfunded Southern Discomfort tour, seeking out the old foodways and digging into his own ancestry with genealogists and historians. The family tree in the book goes back generations, but this is the achievement of hard digging, as many slave records merely give first names, if at all as part of the dehumanizing process.

The structure felt rambly, which I initially disliked, but in the author's note at the end, he says if he could've given a linear timeline he would've considered it, but instead the genre-shifting narrative that revealed itself to him as he learned about the ancestors is what he arrived at, and it makes the story all the more stronger. At the end of most chapters are relevant recipes, though once again I did not try to cook any of them.

Between genealogists and a DNA test, Twitty finds he's about a quarter Caucasian, and there are several points in his great^3 grandparent line where forcible assault introduced white men into his family tree, and this is explored through visiting both the Bellamy plantation and a few weeks in Ireland/England (though for the latter, he finds more familiar culinary DNA between the foodstuffs of west Africa to the South than England).

I initially started reading this last spring, but had to return it. I resumed at the beginning of 2019 when a library hold came back. Might reread earlier chapters too. ( )
  Daumari | Dec 28, 2023 |
This is a fascinating, masterfully researched book that explores not just African American foodways but genetic (and archival) genealogy, oral history, and the cultivation of a personal and spiritual connection with one's ancestors. Twitty's a great storyteller (if you can see him speak, I recommend it), and comes from a family where everyone seems to live into old, old age, so his experience of history has an immediacy that's often lost when we talk about the antebellum and post-Civil War period.

Had to return this one to the library before I was finished, as so often happens with my nonfiction reads - hoping to finish it up one of these days.
  raschneid | Dec 19, 2023 |
[[Michael Twitty]] is a culinary historian, an interpreter of living history at such sites as Colonial Williamsburg and Monticello, and an impressive story-teller. The subtitle of this book is "A Journey Through African American Culinary History in the Old South"--that's more than a mouthful, in more than one sense. And it still really doesn't do justice to the content. Twitty explores the origins and history of many of the ingredients and preparations we associate with Southern cooking, in the context of his own family history and origins. Twitty is a black man, with both Scotch-Irish and Native American ancestry; he is also gay, and a convert to Judaism. "Complex" does not begin to describe the journey he undertook with the aid of professional genealogists, chefs, historians, relatives and friends to trace his ancestral lines, and to connect himself--and all of us--to the rich heritage of so-called soul food, barbecue, Low Country cuisine, and Southern cooking in general. He shares a few recipes, attacks a few myths, locates many varieties of veg in their African or Caribbean homelands, and instructs us in the realities of picking cotton, staking tobacco and curing meats. The book is dense with information, and includes an extensive bibliography as well as a number of color photos. A fascinating read, which I highly recommend. ( )
2 stem laytonwoman3rd | Dec 14, 2023 |
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FUNTUMFUNEFU
There are two crocodiles who share the same stomach and yet they fight over food.
Symbolizes unity in diversity and unity of purposes and reconciling different approaches.
—THE ADINKRA WISDOM OF THE AKAN ELDERS
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I dedicate this book to my board of directors, My Ancestors, without whom none of this would be possible, but more specifically

With respect to my Mama

With respect to my Daddy

For Meredith, for Fallan, for Gideon, for Kennedi, for Grace and Jack, for Malcolm, for Ben—souls in and out of the Newest South
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Negroes in the North are right when they refer to the South as the Old Country. (preface)
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The disruption of the black family, the interruption of an important community-driven ethnic economy, the engendering of a poor diet, an urgent desire to suppress learning and education, and a culture of unrelenting violence—these and all the dependency, instability, and toxic thinking that went along with them were the fruits of King Cotton, none of which black America has been able to fully purge from its system.
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"Culinary historian Michael W. Twitty brings a fresh perspective to our most divisive cultural issue, race, in this illuminating memoir of Southern cuisine and food culture that traces his ancestry--both black and white--through food, from Africa to America and from slavery to freedom. Southern food is integral to the American culinary tradition, yet the question of who "owns" it is one of the most provocative touchpoints in our ongoing struggles over race. In this unique memoir, Twitty takes readers to the white-hot center of this fight, tracing the roots of his own family and the charged politics surrounding the origins of soul food, barbecue, and all Southern cuisine. Twitty travels from the tobacco and rice farms of colonial times to plantation kitchens and backbreaking cotton fields to tell of the struggles his family faced and how food enabled his ancestors' survival across three centuries. He sifts through stories, recipes, genetic tests, and historical documents, and visits Civil War battlefields in Virginia, synagogues in Alabama, and black-owned organic farms in Georgia. As he takes us through his ancestral culinary history, Twitty suggests that healing may come from embracing the discomfort of the South's past. Along the way, he reveals a truth that is more than skin deep--the power of food to bring the kin of the enslaved and their former slaveholders to the table, where they can discover the real America together."--Jacket.

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