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Wild, Tamed, Lost, Revived: The Surprising Story of Apples in the South

door Diane Flynt

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For anyone who's ever picked an apple fresh from the tree or enjoyed a glass of cider, writer and orchardist Diane Flynt offers a new history of the apple and how it changed the South and the nation. Showing how southerners cultivated over 2,000 apple varieties from Virginia to Mississippi, Flynt shares surprising stories of a fruit that was central to the region for over 200 years. Colorful characters abound in this history, including aristocratic Belgian immigrants, South Carolina plantation owners, and multiple presidents, each group changing the course of southern orchards. She shows how southern apples, ranging from northern varieties that found fame on southern soil to hyper-local apples grown by a single family, have a history beyond the region, from Queen Victoria's court to the Oregon Trail. Flynt also tells us the darker side of the story, detailing how apples were entwined with slavery and the theft of Indigenous land. She relates the ways southerners lost their rich apple culture in less than the lifetime of a tree and offers a tentatively hopeful future. Alongside unexpected apple history, Flynt traces the arc of her own journey as a pioneering farmer in the southern Appalachians who planted cider apples never grown in the region and founded the first modern cidery in the South. Flynt threads her own story with archival research and interviews with orchardists, farmers, cidermakers, and more. The result is not only the definitive story of apples in the South but also a new way to challenge our notions of history.… (meer)
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I received an advance copy through NetGalley.

Diane Flynt's book is a love letter to apples, their complicated history, and cider. She focuses on the American south, a welcome and fascinating exploration that goes much deeper than similar, more regionally-broad cider books like American Cider by Dan Pucci and Craig Cavallo and Cider Revival by Jason Wilson. Her books has a unique structure and flow along parallel paths: her own interest in apples and cider as she creates her own Virginia cidery, and the tumultuous history of apples in the south.

Both paths are fascinating. Her travails are relatable, going between heartbreak and hard grind. She doesn't shy away from the hard facts of the history, either, in blunt terms addressing the major role of apples in slavery and in the theft of land from native residents--and surprisingly later details, such as the government's imminent domain-style land-grab of homesteads within the borders of nascent national parks. The conclusion of the book discusses the modern cider industry--the current effort to rediscover "lost" apples, the struggle for cideries to survive (agritourism being a major route), and the role of money-driven modern apples like Cosmic Crisp.

I loved the book. It is educational and affirming, and yet another nonfiction work that enlightens me about a fruit and drink I regularly enjoy. ( )
1 stem ladycato | Jun 14, 2023 |
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For anyone who's ever picked an apple fresh from the tree or enjoyed a glass of cider, writer and orchardist Diane Flynt offers a new history of the apple and how it changed the South and the nation. Showing how southerners cultivated over 2,000 apple varieties from Virginia to Mississippi, Flynt shares surprising stories of a fruit that was central to the region for over 200 years. Colorful characters abound in this history, including aristocratic Belgian immigrants, South Carolina plantation owners, and multiple presidents, each group changing the course of southern orchards. She shows how southern apples, ranging from northern varieties that found fame on southern soil to hyper-local apples grown by a single family, have a history beyond the region, from Queen Victoria's court to the Oregon Trail. Flynt also tells us the darker side of the story, detailing how apples were entwined with slavery and the theft of Indigenous land. She relates the ways southerners lost their rich apple culture in less than the lifetime of a tree and offers a tentatively hopeful future. Alongside unexpected apple history, Flynt traces the arc of her own journey as a pioneering farmer in the southern Appalachians who planted cider apples never grown in the region and founded the first modern cidery in the South. Flynt threads her own story with archival research and interviews with orchardists, farmers, cidermakers, and more. The result is not only the definitive story of apples in the South but also a new way to challenge our notions of history.

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