Jed Williamson

due datesoverdue Climbers need to be honest with themselves and their partners with
regards to their health. Failure to disclose previous medical history. En route meperidine for a toothache summit bid as it was clear that individually and as a team they were ill-prepared
to deal appropriately with conditions. Perdue then warned Rozmus that if their group required further
assistance caused by incompetence on their part, they would be cited
for Creating a Hazardous Condition (36 CFR 2.34 (a)(4) Disorderly
Conduct). two tents, both North Face VE25s, had been destroyed. jeopardize the cache and its contents He was informed that evacuation decisions were strictly based on need,
not personal desires. Ranger Joe Richert was incident commander. They were traveling at night, when cooler temperatures and frozen
conditions make it safer to travel. They were very unlucky. and one psychological problem, in which a client was threatening to
harm himself and others in the group. After 12 days of searching and finding no trace, the presumption is
that he perished. Bodies that are found in remote areas should not be disturbed until
professionals can get to the scene to determine who the victim was and
preserve any evidence around the site. My name is Jeff, and I am the climber who survived this incident. By this time they were hitting us very hard and it became difficult to
see or even breathe, as they would fly into my mouth every time I
opened it to take a breath. as I did not feel I had time or the ability to set up a rappel with
the bees now stinging my eyes. All stinging insects should be ignored and not swatted because in some
species, injury to one insect causes pheromone to be released that
attracts the others and causes them to attack. I was alone on a day off and no friends were around did not appear to have survived the fall It would be the first traditional route we had attempted on our own. I was a stronger climber at that point, so we planned that I would do
all the leading. though with 15-16 pitches we would have to move right along. Ahwahnee Hotel We also decided not to bring helmets because we thought, "It's a 5.7,
it's going to be easy, and there's no one above to drop rocks on us." we'd lost our only copy of the topo. By then it was noon and we'd wasted a lot of time. At that point we had three hours of daylight left for six pitches, 16
single-rope rappels, and some third-class down-climbing, all with no
topo. But we were optimistic. and with only one rope we would have to leave a lot of gear. so we figured we had it in the bag. My shoes were still wet, I was fatigued after so many pitches, and I
was facing a long pendulum fall. He just suddenly yelled and I saw him tumbling down the slab in a
fetal position. limp Even if I made it, Greg might become delirious and untie himself
before help arrived. we both might freeze to death calves puked "Are you Joe or Greg, the overdue climbers?" brain swelling Epics due to inexperience are common on easy and moderate multi-pitch routes And give them this article to study. A new leader and a non-leader make a weak team, especially if the
leader becomes incapacited, so gain experience on shorter traditional
climbs where problems ca be handled more easily. take a topo for each person Learn to recognize when your mental state and/or a string of seemingly
minor events are setting you up for an accident. This is one aspect of
Situational Awareness - taught to emergency workers, pilots, the
military, etc., and it can be a lifesaver. Haste is a common example Ideally, Greg should have been immobilized right where he landed, in
case of spinal injury. where he and Greg were going and when to begin to worry They became stranded because they forgot to untie the safety knot in
one end of the rappel rope, so it got stuck and they were stranded and
benighted. 20-foot fall to the ground. No serious injury resulted. crusty junk over blue ice hollered bergshrund he was going to fall to his death at any moment Amy describes Ric as a natural athlete and seemingly fearless. Being
on a relatively easy route may have given him too much confidence.
This is pretty common among good athletes - until their first serious
mishap. I will never again venture onto an alpin face, even an easy one,
without a few pitons and a hammer for use in emergency. Last year I climbed a couple of peaks in Canada that have maintained
rap stations with big, fat double bolts and rings. I like those. The space blanket that I have carried for many years finally came into
use and worked very well. I strongly recommend that every climber
carry one. He was pronounced dead immediately. deteriorating weather conditions no matter how easy the climb is you have to pretend it's the hardest
thing you ever did benighted All climbers bend rules occasionally one rule that should hold fast Be careful though, as some devices can damage or even cut a climbing
rope under the force of a fall. stranded Tommy Thompson and Erik Erickson Yamamoto was a talented free climber and Ryugo was a competent
follower, though inexperienced to Yamamoto. the Salathé team appeared to be sheltered in a portaledge About the same time, a break in the clouds allowed spotters with a
telescope to see a climber (probably Yamamoto) about two pitches above
Camp 6, apparently trying to wrap himself in a yellow tarp. Turner on Tempest radioed that he had become significantly hypothermic
and might not survive another night on the wall. A5 rain fly Nevertheless, he was already wet, in a leaky shelter, and facing three
more storm days on the way. We had the best ledge money could buy, with a four-season fly that
encompassed the whole thing. This system saved our lives, but even
with everything set up right, we didn't have a single dry item to our
name... and we slept in a puddle. Gramicci prototype. As it got colder and their food ran out, they lived on lemon drops
dissolved in hot water. Thursday morning they awoke to find their fixed ropes, the portaledge,
and the pitches above encased in a layer of ice. synthetic layers Based on evidence found at the scene, here is an educated guess at the
subsequent events Then he descended, perhaps to help Ryugo after her long, cold belay at
the anchor below. they cut their lead and haul lines in various places, possibly because
their hands were too cold to untie the knots They were found huddled together, wrapped in the fly, at an impromptu
- but still logically arranged - belay, half way up pitch 28. Climbers don't leave their ropes and racks behind, but without
threatening clouds overhead, most parties shortcut on storm gear in
one way or another. Finally , an under-equipped partner is a weak link for the whole team,
so double-check each other's gear and don't allow shortcuts. you have to be as thorough with calories as with the rest of your
preparations. This isn't about gourmet dining. A tiny package of ten
energy bars will cover one person's basic requirements for a day. They needed sealed sleeves (e.g., kayak dry-top jackets), waterproof
gloves that fit over the sleeves, and ample insulation. Negotiating the East Ledges descent from the summit of El Cap in these
conditions is a life-threatening endeavor in itself. A safe return depends on self-sufficiency. The climbers under estimated the length of the climb and over
estimated the length of their rope. stranded, exposure-hypothermia, inadequate clothing/equipment,
climbing alone, weather, exceeding abilities At 1030 , the solo mountaineer separated from his group at the Keyhole
Formation (13,100 feet above sea level), and continued on alone, in a
snowstorm, towards the summit. He was lightly dressed in a hooded sweatshirt over a T-shirt, blue
jeans, wool gloves, cotton socks, and sneakers. The cause of death was exposure. he apparently had a case of being goal oriented He was several feet down a gully with a hex from his gear sling caught
in a crack. The gear sling was around his neck and positioned in a way
that restricted his breathing. butterfly coil drowned while attempting to retrieve a climbing shoe from the ocean
below Otter Cliffs barn-doored man-winched up-and-over timberline had no preset turnaround time followers leader in removing the camming unit. This whole process went on for almost two hours. talus field fireman carry He hit the ground on a loose rope. This would be a "standard, non-standard" test. lead climber Failure to follow instincts. "It was the sickest sound I've ever heard". four-foot slings A wilderness first aid class and training with the Obsidians were reported overdue the victim died at the scene Bridal Veil Falls Gigi was solo climbing with no gear or helmet, only a backpack. Martin seconded and cleaned the gear. breaking and losing his Black Diamond Half Dome helmet in the tumble and impacts Incompatible partners they ha bad vibes about the route Italian Cracks prowess red point ability very fit individual very difficult indeed Alex Lowe cairn whomever objective hazard such as rockfall Vexatious, maybe irrelevant threw whole rope down - so stranded tied webbing knot incorrectly on rappel anchor - so came undone when weighted failure to follow instincts… (meer)